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By Myghal Map Serpren

Having been visited by Albert Edward (b.1841CE  d.1910CE), Prince of Wales and later King Edward VII during 1857CE, the future King George V (b.1865CE  d.1936CE) during 1892CE, Princess Victoria Mary of Teck (b.1867CE  d.1953CE), the future Queen Mary during 1900CE, King Edward VII again during 1905CE, Winston Churchill (b.1874CE  d.1965CE) during 1942CE and a host of other notables including the Supreme Commander of Allied Forces in Europe at the time, United States General Dwight D. Eisenhower, it is hardly wonder that Brougham Hall in Cumbria once earned the title, the ‘Windsor of the North.’

The de Burgham family had been landowners and nobility of the district around the hall since at least 1000CE and the oldest parts of Brougham Hall can be found in the 13th-century gateway and adjacent Tudor Hall dating to 1480CE.

Brougham Hall, the Gatehouse

Passing from the de Burgham’s to Lady Anne Clifford, 14th Baroness de Clifford, (b.1590CE  d.1676CE) during 1654CE, restoration of the buildings ensued in common with her efforts at many other historic sites.

The Tudor buildings

There is evidence that the defensive Pele Tower at Brougham Hall dates from the 14th century. This said, the timbers used within the now ruinous Pele have been dated as being cut in 1586CE. This then dates the structure to the years immediately before the Union of the Crowns of England and Scotland in 1603CE after which such towers became obsolete. It remains as one of the newest and smallest such Towers measuring 21 feet 6 inches square.

The ruins of the Pele tower

It doubtless served as a viewing platform for the Clifton Moor Skirmish of 18th December, 1745CE, when forces of the British Hanoverian Government and Jacobite rebels clashed on land overlooked by Brougham Hall, this often being cited as the last battle to occur on English soil. This is commemorated by a plaque found in the Hall grounds overlooking the site of the battle.

By 1726CE, the Hall had returned to the ownership of the de Broughams in the shape of John Brougham of Scales (b. c1689  d.1756CE) who paid £5,000 for the property, a vast sum in those times.

Following substantial rebuilding in in 1829CE, the property flourished and from 1860 it was the residence of Henry Brougham, 1st Baron Brougham and Vaux, (b.1778CE  d.1868CE) Lord Chancellor of Great Britain, of note for his role in achieving the 1832 Reform Act and 1833 Slavery Abolition Act.

The Lord Chancellor’s Den

During the latter part of the 19th century and early part of the 20th century,  Brougham Hall became a haunt for Royalty.

During the 1930s, the hall was owned by Victor Brougham, 4th Baron Brougham and Vaux (b.1909CE  d.1967CE) who was compelled to sell the property in 1934 to settle extensive debts accrued through gambling, and demolition was planned.

Life returned to the building during the Second World War when a then-secret military project known as the ‘Canal Defence Light’ was developed earlier bringing about wartime building and visits by the wartime Prime Minister, Winston Churchill and the United States General, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Supreme Commander Allied Powers in Europe.

With the end of the war in 1945, the property again fell into decline.

This was halted in 1967 and again in 1986 when it became a longstanding restoration project under the management of a Charitable Trust and is now used as a centre for the creative industry, commemorative events and public visits with an informative internet website found at: https://www.broughamhall.co.uk/

References

  • History of Brougham Hall and High Head Castle – Mark Thomas, Phillimore  Co. Ltd., 1992

All images author’s own, except where stated.


Sadly, this concludes Myghal’s travels around Cumbria and Westmoreland earlier this year. But fear not, gentle reader, as he will be returning to his native Cornwall and visiting many of the heritage sites there and bringing his viewpoint in future articles. His previous articles can be found here.


By Myghal Map Serpren. This is the second of a three-part article concluding Myghal’s excursions around Cumbria earlier this year.

Brougham Castle

During 1203CE, the Barony of Westmorland which included Brougham was granted as a reward to Robert de Vieuxpont (d. c1228CE), the younger son of William de Vieuxpont (d. 1203CE) and Maud de Morville (d. 1210CE) by King John (b.1166CE  d.1216CE) as a reward to de Vieuxpont for loyalty to the crown.

Baron de Vieuxpont went on the acquire the site at Brougham now occupied by the fine castle in 1214CE and developed it into a defensive structure in order to assist in the protection of his lands against enemies of King John and their allies from Scotland.

Brougham Castle viewed from site of Brocavum Roman Fort

Choosing the place for the same reasons as the Romans many centuries before, an impressive and classic square stone keep and service buildings were constructed and surrounded initially by a timber palisade, which was rebuilt in stone around 1300CE.

Many of the Roman stones were repurposed during the castle building and can still be found today.

By the time this extra construction occurred, the castle was in the ownership of Baron Robert Clifford (b. 1274CE  d.1314CE at the Battle of Bannockburn) whose father Roger Clifford (d.1282CE) had become Lord of Brougham on marriage to Baron Robert de Vieuxpont’s great-granddaughter in 1268CE.

Clifford became an important figure in the Scottish wars which started in 1296CE and it was he who initiated the construction of a powerful double gatehouse with its own courtyard and underfloor strongroom, the addition of a further fourth storey on the keep with a private oratory, the building of the so-called ‘Tower of League’ – originally the ‘Tower of Liege’ – a four storey structure situated in the South West corner of the castle as well as the curtain walls.

Brougham Castle – the keep

The Anglo-Scottish Wars which commenced during the reign of King Edward I (b.1239CE  d.1307CE) lasted for centuries and Baron Robert Clifford’s grandson, Roger (d.1232CE) initiated further work at the castle including the construction of buildings along the South curtain wall.

A raid by the Scottish army on Broughton Castle occurred during 1388CE when despite its formidable defences, the castle was captured and sacked.

It was back in full operation by 1421CE and played an important role in the Wars of the Roses which saw the Clifford family take up the Lancastrian cause against the Neville family who were Yorkists.

Brougham Castle – the inner bailey

King Edward IV (b.1537CE  d.1553CE) granted the castle to the Nevilles’ following the death of John Clifford (d.1461CE)  who died fighting for King Henry VI (b.1421CE. d.1471CE) but John’s son recovered the castle and much else besides from King Henry VII (b.1457CE  d.1509CE).

After 1558CE, the castle saw a period of decline due mainly to its owner, Earl George Clifford (d.1605CE) being absent and this much was revealed in a survey of 1595CE.

However, this decline was reversed during 1605CE and indeed King James I (b.1566CE  d.1625CE) and his entire Court spent two nights at the castle in 1617CE.

After this period, Broughton Castle experienced a decline, playing little or no part in the Civil Wars of the 1640s CE.

It was during the ownership of the ubiquitous Lady Anne Clifford (b.1590  d.1676CE) who carried out restorations at Broughton as she did at her other castles and she spent considerable periods at the castle.

Following her death, the castle experienced its most calamitous period of decline and was reduced to an empty ruin.

Brougham Castle – interior of keep viewed from ground floor

Having undergone dereliction, the property was acquired in 1928CE by the then Ministry of Works and so into public ownership 

Brougham Castle is today administered by English Heritage which allows public access and the site has an entrance building which contains a visitor centre where many Roman and other engraved stones can be viewed.

References

  • An Imperial Possession, Britain in the Roman Empire – Professor David Mattingly, Allen Lane, Penguin Books, 2006
  • The Roman Cemetery at Brougham, Cumbria: Excavations 1966-67 [data-set] – Mark Bell, Dr. H. E. M. Cool York: Archaeology Data Service, 2004 Link: https://doi.org/10.5284/1000226
  • The National Trust Book of British Castles – Paul Johnson, Book Club Associates, London, 1978
  • Castles of England – Gary Hogg, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1972
  • Brougham and Brough Castles – Henry Summerson, English Heritage, London, 1999
  • The Castles of Great Britain – Sidney Toy FSA, FRIBA, Heinemann, London, 1966

All images author’s own, except where stated.


See similar articles by Myghal Map Serpren


By Myghal Map Serpren. Sadly, we are approaching the end point of Myghal’s travels through Cumbria earlier this year. We’ll do so by taking an extended look over the next couple of articles at the area around Brougham near Penrith.

Brocavum Fort

It was the Romans who observed that the confluence of the Rivers Eamont and Lowther at Brougham near Penrith in what is now Cumbria formed a very defensible site and so they built a fort there named Brocavum.

Brocavum was also a place where several Roman roads met.

The bridge over the confluence of Rivers Lowther and Eamont, Brougham

Research points to Roman occupation of the fort from around 78CE through to the end of the 4th century CE. As was the norm, by the 3rd century CE, a ‘vicus’ or settlement had grown around the fort.

The fort itself measured approximately 120 yards by 180 yards and enclosed an area of some 3.4 to 4.5 acres. The earthen ramparts were probably faced with stone and this was doubtless reused in the later castle which also took advantage of the ditch to the West as part of its own defences.

Brougham Castle, Roman & Mediaeval Earthworks – An Inventory of the Historical Monuments in Westmorland. Originally published by His Majesty’s Stationery Office, London, 1936

There are no remains of buildings contained inside the fort. However, a clearance of the moat of the later castle resulted in finds of pottery dating from the 2nd to 4th centuries CE and coins found during 1910CE near the fort rampart dating from the time of Emperor Valerian (b. c199CE  d. c260–264CE) who reigned from 253CE to 260CE  and from the time of Tetricus I (b. unknown  d. unknown) of the breakaway Gallic Empire, who reigned from 270CE to 274CE.

A Roman Fort of this size was capable of housing a Cohort, so up to around 480 men.

Brougham Castle viewed from the site of Brocavum Roman Fort

A number of inscribed stones from the Roman era have been found locally and are on display in the site’s entrance building. Others were incorporated into the fabric of the later Norman castle.

Roman altars have been recovered at the site dedicated to Belatucadrus, a local God of War, and one dedicated by a soldier of a Stratonicea cavalry unit originally from Asia which dates from the 3rd century CE.

One stone records the presence of ‘Cohors III Bracaraugustanorum’, a part mounted, but mainly infantry formation which was recruited from members of the Gallaeci tribe from Bracara Augusta in Lusitania this being now known as Braga in Northern Portugal.

As with so many other historic sites, it was road development during modern times which brought about many discoveries relating to the Roman occupation in what is now Brougham.

Little work has been carried out on the site of the fort but work on the adjacent A66 road conducted in 1966CE revealed a Roman cemetery.

This cemetery lies a short distance to the East of the fort and vicus and to the North of the Roman Pennine road.

Many recoveries of crematory and other such remains including jewellery, figurines, military equipment and other items were made following the excavation of the cemetery and these were saved in the face of looming road development.

The cemetery appears to have been in use until around 300CE.

Ultimately, the end of Roman rule came during the early 5th century CE and the area remained turbulent with a succession of Northumbrian and Scots Kings possessing the region.

It would appear that the defences at Brocavum, later Brougham, fell into disrepair.

During 1092CE, the third son of King William  I, ‘William the Conqueror’ (b. 1029CE  d.1087CE), King William II, ‘William Rufus’, (b. c1057CE  d.1100CE) assumed the throne and a border with Scotland was established. Brougham did not figure in the defensive castles built to secure that border, rather it was Carlisle that assumed prominence with a fine castle there joined by those at Appleby and Brough.

References

  • An Imperial Possession, Britain in the Roman Empire – Professor David Mattingly, Allen Lane, Penguin Books, 2006
  • The Roman Cemetery at Brougham, Cumbria: Excavations 1966-67 [data-set] – Mark Bell, Dr. H. E. M. Cool York: Archaeology Data Service, 2004 Link: https://doi.org/10.5284/1000226
  • The National Trust Book of British Castles – Paul Johnson, Book Club Associates, London, 1978
  • Castles of England – Gary Hogg, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1972
  • Brougham and Brough Castles – Henry Summerson, English Heritage, London, 1999
  • The Castles of Great Britain – Sidney Toy FSA, FRIBA, Heinemann, London, 1966

All images author’s own, except where stated.


See similar articles by Myghal Map Serpren


By Myghal Map Serpren

Lanercost Priory is situated in the village of Lanercost in Northern Cumbria.

It has been a place of residence for a King and Queens, attacked by Kings, used as a meeting place between Kings and finally brought to an end by a King.

Lanercost Priory and Church – view from the North

The Priory was founded in around 1169CE by Robert de Vaux (d. c1195CE) as an Augustinian House of Prayer.

De Vaux’s family had been granted the Barony of Gilsland on the border with Scotland as a reward for their part in the Norman Conquest. As the area had only fallen under English rule in 1157CE, the Priory was built in an area which experienced considerable turbulence and which would continue to do so for the times ahead.

Much of the early structure was built with stones taken from the nearby Hadrian’s Wall, and some of these stones bearing Roman inscriptions can be seen on the walls of the Priory.

The earliest work saw the construction of the south transept and south wall of the church, together with Monastic buildings around the cloister.

The so-called Lanercost Cross was erected to mark the completion of initial building work during 1214CE and the base of this inscribed cross, long since divided, can be found outside the entrance to the Priory Church of Saint Mary Magdalene with the shaft now inside the church where it was placed in 1888CE in an effort to preserve it.

The Lanercost Cross shaft 1214CE

The Latin inscription on the shaft reads:

“In the 1214th year from the Incarnation, and the seventh year of the Interdict, Innocent III holding the apostolic see, Otto being emperor in Germany, Philip reigning in France, John in England, William in Scotland, this cross was made”

The West Front of the Church dates from around 1200CE and a figure carved in 1270CE can be seen depicting the Patron Saint of the Priory, Saint Mary Magdalene.

Entrance to Church of Saint Mary Magdalene, Lanercost Priory viewed from the West

An extended break in construction work then ensued and it was not until several years later in 1260CE that the presbytery and north transept were finally completed.

Its geographical location ensured a somewhat violent history for the Priory and its Canon Monks.

During the Wars of Scottish Independence during the late 13th and early 14th centuries, it was often the subject of attack by the Scots who were fighting against English raids.

A Scottish army camped at Lanercost during 1296CE and during their retreat, damage was caused to some of the priory’s buildings.

Border unrest saw further damage occur during 1297CE.

During his reign which extended from 1272CE until 1307CE, King Edward I (b. 1239CE  d.1307CE) variously called ‘Edward Longshanks’ and ‘The Hammer of the Scots’, briefly visited the Priory accompanied by Queen Eleanor (b.1241CE  d.1290CE) during the latter part of 1280CE.

He again stayed at Lanercost during 1300CE and finally, during 1306CE, accompanied by his second wife, Queen Margaret (b. c.1279CE  d.1313CE).

He remained at the Priory for no less than six months making the place the seat for the rule of the Kingdom of England and work was carried out on parts of the building repairing damage caused by the raids by the Scots. A chapel and bathhouse were constructed for the Queen.

The 13th-century fortified Pele Tower known as the Vicar’s Tower was taken up by King Edward and was renamed ‘King Edward’s Tower’ thereafter. Comprising a two-storey structure capable of being defended, it is one of two such towers at Lanercost Priory.

Lanercost Priory – the Vicar’s Pele

A second Pele, the ‘Prior’s Tower’, comprises a four storey Mediaeval stone fortified tower with an adjoining two-storey range to the west.

This was extensively reconstructed during the 16th century by the Dacre family during their ownership and made into a comfortable dwelling with large windows inserted in the tower making it less suitable for its original purpose and marking the coming of more peaceful times.

Dying in July 1307CE, King Edward I was not the final royal visitor to Lanercost however, for during August, 1311CE, King Robert I of Scotland (b. 1274CE  d. 1329CE), ‘Robert the Bruce’ arrived with his army and made the Priory his headquarters for three days whilst conducting his military campaign. A less welcome visitor, he imprisoned some of the Canon Monks briefly.

During 1328CE, a Royal meeting took place at the Priory between King Robert and King Edward III of England (b.1312CE  d.1377CE) as part of peace negotiations leading to the Treaty of Edinburgh-Northampton.

This treaty, branded ‘The Shameful Peace’, lasted but five years and another Royal visitor in the shape of King David II of Scotland (b.1324CE d.1371CE) caused damage to the buildings during military operations as well as stealing some of the holy artefacts and treasures.

A contemporary document, recording the actions of the Scots informs:

“They entered arrogantly into the sanctuary, threw out the vessels of the temple, plundered the treasury, shattered the bones, stole the jewels and destroyed as much as they could.”

Peace between England and Scotland finally came with the Treaty of Berwick in 1357CE although, during 1386CE, one of the Canon Monks was taken prisoner by the Scots and ransomed.

Royal visits and raids had left the Priory exhausted, both financially and materially and surrounding land was sold off to defray costs.

By 1379CE, the Priory was home to the Prior and but four Canons and an appeal for help was issued in 1409CE.

The local landowner, the wealthy Sir Thomas Dacre (b.1467CE  d.1525CE) was generous enough but the Priory remained poor and continued that way until the Dissolution of Monasteries and seizure of assets by King Henry VIII (b.1491CE  d.1547CE) saw the closure of Lanercost in March 1537CE, a final Royal assault and this time one with longstanding and permanent results. 

At this time Lanercost’s income was recorded at £80 per annum, very minimal for the time, and at the time of ultimate closure had a Prior, eight Canons, a Curate of the church and some 40 members of the laity.

The inevitable occurred and many of the buildings were stripped and left to decline.

King Henry’s break from the Church of Rome had ongoing repercussions as his nephew, King James V (b.1512CE  d.1542CE) of Scotland refused to similarly break away from Catholicism. 

This culminated in the Battle of Solway Moss in 1542CE and for his loyal service, an illegitimate son of Sir Thomas Dacre, also Thomas Dacre was awarded the Priory and lands at Lanercost.

He oversaw the conversion of the ecclesiastical buildings into ones for secular occupation and the creation of a private residence, which became known as ‘Dacre Hall’.

The former Priory remained in the hands of the Dacre family for several generations although during the Civil War of the 1540’sCE, the family who supported the Royalist cause saw considerable financial loss and the last member of the family line died in 1716CE with such debt that the Priory site reverted to the Crown.

A restoration of the remaining church building was carried out in the period leading up to 1747CE mainly as a result of the efforts of Charles Howard, the Third Earl Carlisle but the work was hastily and carelessly completed and 100 years later, the building was once again in a poor state of repair.

A collapse of the roof saw the Crown finance urgent restoration resulting in the church reopening in 1849CE.

During 1869CE, George Howard, the Ninth Earl Carlisle purchased the former Priory buildings from the Crown and carried out substantial work including the installation of a magnificent barrel-vaulted ceiling in the church.

Lanercost Priory Church roof

Many of the impressive stained glass windows date from this period.

By 1930CE, such were the financial demands of the site that the Howard family passed guardianship to the then Office of Works and thus public ownership.

Publicly funded conservation and archaeological work ensued which revealed the remains of the original Chapter House.

Lanercost Priory – the Chapter House-800px

Lanercost has many impressive tombs and effigies containing the remains of nobility and people of influence with the earliest dating to 1199CE through to more recent internments of the later 19th century.

The Anglican priory church is open every day of the year and donations are welcomed. The adjoining ruins are under the guardianship of English Heritage, admission is charged and Dacre Hall now serves as a community centre.

The Carlisle Archive Centre at Lady Gilford’s House in Carlisle is home to a document of great historic significance, ‘The Lanercost Cartulary’, which is the work of the Canon Monks who recorded much about the Priory and Estate until 1364CE.

References

  • The Old Parish Churches of Cumbria – Mike Salter, Folly Publications, 1998
  • Lanercost Priory – Graham D. Keevil, Historic England, 2003

All images author’s own, except where stated.


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By Myghal Map Serpren

The picturesque ruins of Shap Abbey stand near the River Lowther around half a mile West of Shap, now a village but once a market town which itself is some ten miles away from Penrith in Cumbria.

The place name is thought to derive from the Old Norse ‘Hjap’, interpreting from the Old English ‘Heap’ (pronounced ‘hee-app’) meaning a ‘heap of stones’, quite possibly a reference to ‘Shap Stone Avenue’, a nearby Megalithic complex comprising two stone avenues together with burial mounds and stone circles.

Shap Abbey dates from 1199CE and represents the last Abbey to be constructed in England.

Shap Abbey viewed from the approach path.

Built on land granted to them by Baron Thomas, son of Lord Gospatric, it was founded by Candidus et Canonicus Ordo Praemonstratensis (The Order of Canons Regular of Prémontré) otherwise known as the  Premonstratensian Order or so-called ‘White Canons’ called such owing to their white woollen robes.

Founded by Saint Norbert in Prémontré in Northern France in 1120CE,  members of the Order led a contemplative Monastic life and frequently served their local communities as parish priests.

Shap Abbey was one of no less than 32 such Abbeys and religious houses of Candidus et Canonicus Ordo Praemonstratensis in Britain and up to 12 to 14 Canons and an Abbot were in residence, part of an Order which achieved great wealth and which was held in high regard by the powerful dynasties of the time.

The surviving buildings at Shap Abbey date from between the 13th and early 16th centuries and mainly comprise the Abbey church of Saint Mary Magdalene, dominated by an impressive tower at the Western end of the remains which dates from around 1500CE.

The West Tower.

Bar a few raids by the Scots during the 14th century during which minor damage was caused, Shap Abbey enjoyed a relatively peaceful existence which suited well the ethos of the ‘White Canons’.

Major building works occurred during the 15th century.

Attached to the church and arranged around a central cloister, the remains of the main buildings are found with the Chapter House, dormitories and cellars still evident.

Shap Abbey – the Cellarers Range.

Little or nothing now remains of the Abbey’s walled precinct and outer gatehouse which enclosed the Monastic buildings, Abbey mill and fishponds.

Important benefactors as well as Abbots were buried in or near the Chapter House and a stone coffin is still visible on the floor earlier with two other burials in the adjacent cloister.

Shap Abbey – stone coffin.

Several members of the pre-eminent Clifford family are interred at the Abbey including Robert the First Baron Clifford, Robert the Third Baron Clifford, Roger the Fifth Baron Clifford and Henry the Tenth Baron Clifford.

One of the most notable Abbots was the son of a local landowner, Richard Redman, OPraem (Ordo Praemonstratensis), (d.1505CE), who not only became head of The Order of Canons Regular of Prémontré in England, an appointment of incredible significance, but the who later became Bishop of Saint Asaph in approximately 1471CE, Bishop of Exeter in 1495CE and Bishop of Ely in 1501CE.  

Bishop Redman is remembered by an impressive funeral monument found in Ely Cathedral.

The Abbey may have been the last Abbey to have been built in England but it was also the last to be dissolved.

Despite surviving the initial stages of the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536CE, four years later on 14th January 1540, the last Abbot surrendered to a force representing King Henry VIII.

It was an honourable submission though, and both the Abbot and 14 Canons received official pensions. Later that year, the Abbey’s land was granted to the Governor of Carlisle.

Thereafter the Abbey buildings, magnificent as they were, fell into disuse and in common with many other similar buildings became a source of construction materials.

Locally, a farm was constructed adjacent to the former Abbey incorporating much of the stonework, some was taken to the local town of Shap and repurposed in the 17th century to erect a Market Hall and the finer carved stonework was employed in the construction of Lowther Castle, the rambling and impressive country house rebuilt by John Lowther, First Earl Lonsdale (b.1605CE  d.1675CE) during the later 17th century.

What remains at Shap Abbey, magnificent as the site is and now a Scheduled Monument, is under the care of the quasi-charity English Heritage who have passed practical management to the Lake District National Park Authority joined by chickens from the nearby farm.

Guardians of the Abbey!

Access is free at this time but a charge is made for car parking.

References

All images author’s own, except where stated.


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Myghal Map Serpren continues his travels through Cumbria.

Egremont Castle was constructed as a motte and bailey castle during the 12th century and is on the site of an earlier Danish fort dating from the end of the first millennium CE.

William de Meschines (d. c1130 to 1135CE), the First Lord of Egremont, built this current castle on the hill towards the end of his life at the South end of the old market town where it overlooks the River Ehen.

It is one of the oldest fortifications of its type in Cumbria.

Having fought in the First Crusade, de Meschines, an Anglo-Norman nobleman,  acquired land in the district from the King, Henry I (b. c1068CE  d.1135CE) and also by marriage to a wealthy wife.

Egremont Castle – the Gatehouse

Surrounded by a substantial ditch, the castle has an impressive gatehouse and herringbone curtain wall. The gatehouse was originally three storeys tall, equipped with a drawbridge over the ditch as well as a portcullis and the remains of the slots can be seen.

Internal columns in the gatehouse supported ribs which supported a domed, vaulted roof.

Internal supporting column

Of the surrounding buildings in the bailey, stables, kitchens and the like, only foundations now remain.

Originally, the castle was defended by an outer wall and barbican but of these features, nothing now remains.

The keep and great hall on the North side of the castle date from updating work carried out during 1315CE and replaced an earlier round keep which was originally of timber. Only window portions and the outer staircase remain.

Remains of the Keep and Great Hall

The Lord of the castle, his family and retinue slept above this hall and access to the building was by a wooden stair, bridge and a portcullis. Being built on the site of the former motte, no undercroft was possible.

Following the Battle of Bannockburn during June, 1314CE and the victory there of King Robert I, ‘the Bruce’, (b.1274CE  d.1329CE) of Scotland over King Edward II (b.1284CE  d.1327CE) of England, the castle was twice attacked by King Robert during 1315CE.

The castle and the lands about it passed between the English and the Scots and it was finally deliberately reduced to a ruin during the 16th century after a failed attempt during 1570CE by local nobles to take the throne for Mary, Queen of Scots – Queen Mary I of Scotland (b. 1542CE  d. 1587CE).

By 1758CE, much of the castle building began to fall down and further damage was caused during an earthquake of 1786CE. This earthquake saw the final demise of the building for public use, the local court having been conducted on the site until that time.

Situated on the approach to the castle is found a market cross dating from 1200CE. In 1266CE, King Henry III (b. 1207CE  d. 1272CE) granted Egremont a charter to hold a market and annual fair and a traditional so-called ‘Crab Fair’ was established and continues to modern times making it one of the oldest such fairs recorded. Named after crab apples, the event remains popular.

Remains of the Market Cross dating from 1200CE

William Wordsworth’s (b.1770CE. d.1850CE) poem, ‘The Horn of Egremont Castle’ written in 1815CE tells of early owners of the castle, the de Lucy’s and their legendary horn which only the rightful heir could use.

ERE the Brothers through the gateway
Issued forth with old and young,
To the Horn Sir Eustace pointed
Which for ages there had hung.
Horn it was which none could sound,
No one upon living ground,
Save He who came as rightful Heir
To Egremont’s Domains and Castle fair.

The Horn Of Egremont Castle
 (n.d.). Poetry.com. Retrieved October 29, 2023, from https://www.poetry.com/poem/42356/the-horn-of-egremont-castle.

Set in beautiful and award winning gardens, the castle is now a listed building and is freely accessible to the general public.

References

All images author’s own, except where stated.


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By Myghal Map Serpren

Less of a village and more a collection of farm and agricultural buildings, Barton is home to Saint Michael’s Church, unusual in that it has a central tower.

This 12th-century church stands on a mound within a circular churchyard which is strongly suspected to have been a prehistoric round, the dedication to Saint Michael was one traditionally made on sites where Christianity supplanted earlier spiritual beliefs.

St Michael’s, Barton

The original building here comprised the tower and West nave which date from 1150CE and this Norman structure was built by the de Lancastre family of the Barony of Kendal.

Given the turbulent history of the district, it would be reasonable to assume that the church tower was originally constructed with defence in mind and as a place of refuge for the clergy.

A five-foot-deep arrow slit found in the South wall which was originally on the outside of the building together with the ascending steps indicate the strength of the structure.

The South aisle followed 100 years later and with its fine octagonal pillars was built in around 1250CE, thence the North aisle with quatrefoil pillars in around 1280CE and during 1330CE, monks from the Priory of Watre rebuilt and enlarged the original chancel.

It was at this time that the unique double-rounded arch supporting the tower was inserted.

Tower and nave from entrance aisle

Moulded corbels date from 1280CE and it is thought that one represents King Edward I (b.1239CE  d.1307CE), so-called ‘Edward Longshanks’ who reigned from 1772CE to 1307CE.

Originally the church was roofed in thatch and during 1704CE, Bishop William Nicholson (b.1655CE  d.1712CE) recorded “the walls and roof being made very good, the floor levelled and flagged.”

Replacement of thatch with slate occurred during the 17th century.

A major restoration of the church occurred as recently as 1903CE which involved the removal of plaster ceilings, stripping plaster from the walls and pillars, repointing of the external and internal stonework, erecting a new pulpit and removing a gallery. It was then that magnificent oak barrel vaulting was installed running East to West in the nave and chancel which wonderfully echoes the North-South vault of the tower.

Also during 1903CE, early gravestones found at a lower level were re-laid including a 14th-century coffin lid with an ornamental cross in high relief, sword and shield of Lancaster and inscribed Christofer de Lancastre and with the word ‘Mercy’ in Lombardic capitals.

A most fascinating fragment of a carved stone can be seen to the left of the South window.

Thought to date from the 6th century, the engraving resembles a ‘solar cross’ with its six spokes suggesting a Celtic wheel which was associated with Taranis or Thor.

The ‘solar cross’

Comparison with other such crosses particularly found in County Donegal, Ireland could also indicate that this is a remaining upper fragment of a cross depicting the fall of man with the spokes representing branches of the tree from which Eve plucked the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden.

Of equal interest in the South of the church is a late 16th-century panel thought to be part of a sarcophagus which is carved with a rosette, fleur de lys, birds, rose bushes, trees and scrolls.

Saint Michael’s also has several memorials to relatives of the poet, William Wordsworth (b.1770CE  d.1850CE) and his grandfather, Richard lays buried in the chancel, and his cousin John, first wife Anne, second wife Elizabeth as well as his aunt also have memorials in the church.

Saint Michael’s is home to some very fine stained glass with one window depicting Saint Michael, the Archangel and All Angels and the Annunciation dating from the early 20th century being the work of Walter Ernest Tower (b.1873CE  d.1955CE).

Stained glass window, depicting St Michael

With much to see in and about the building, in 1968CE Saint Michael’s Church was accorded Grade I listed status and remarkably, the churchyard around it has no less than 12 structures which have a Grade II listing.

References

  • St Michael’s, Barton, A Short Guide To Church And Parish – Richard Gravil, Barton Parochial Church Council, 2010
  • The Old Parish Churches of Cumbria – Mike Salter, Folly Publications, 1998

All images author’s own, except where stated.


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By Myghal Map Serpren

Saint Cuthbert’s Church is situated in Great Salkeld, a village just northeast of Penrith in Cumbria.

Sometimes referred to in Mediaeval documents as Salkeld Regis as it was during certain times the property of the Crown, Salkeld, which was originally pronounced ‘Saffelt’, is thought to mean ‘the spring among the willows’, derived from the Old English ‘selig’ or ‘salh’ translating as ‘willow’ and the Old Norse ‘kilda’ translating as ‘spring’ or ‘brook’.

Salkeld Regis had become Salkeld Magna by 1509CE and Muche Salkeld by 1583CE to distinguish it from Little or Old Salkeld which lies on the opposite bank of the nearby River Eden.

Salkeld Manor was originally granted to Sir Richard de Salkeld by Edward III in 1337 and remained with his family for many generations thereafter. His descendants are found today across the globe, particularly in North America.

A church building has probably existed in Great Salkeld since 880CE after the resting here of the body of Saint Cuthbert, the Northumbrian Saint, who had died in around 687CE, which was carried about for some seven years post mortem by the monks of Lindisfarne in order to save it from the possibility of desecration at the hands of the Vikings. His remains finally came to rest in Durham in around 955CE and were eventually interred in the Norman cathedral there in 1104CE.

St Cuthbert’s, Salkeld

Around 40 churches were dedicated to Cuthbert, described as ‘the last great Celtic Saint’, with each one said to represent a place where his remains briefly rested whilst in the care of the monks.

The rebuilding of the church in red sandstone at Great Salkeld is thought to have occurred around 1080CE with the surviving South doorway bearing signs of Scandinavian mythology, the sun, tree and serpent.

The building of the tower on the church’s Western end, more accurately a Pele, occurred during 1380CE with immensely thick walls and narrow access doorway together with a solid yett containing interlacing iron bars and draw bars.

The defensible door to the tower

This was designed to offer a safe refuge for the Rector and other select local residents during times of threat from the Scots.

The three-storey tower has a fireplace on its first floor with an early Mediaeval gravestone having been used in its construction. Other repurposed gravestones are found elsewhere in the structure.

Over the fireplace, an engraved stone believed to date from the 13th century reads, “…OMOBV..E. INGELVOD…” suggesting that the person commemorated during some earlier time may have been a forester or official of the Royal Forest of Ingelwood which extended from Carlisle to Penrith.

The battlemented tower contains six bells dating from 1882CE and funded at a cost of £400 raised by public subscription and hung for full circle ringing.

The church bells

Over the pele’s entrance yett, a small collection of armour has been mounted.

This was collected in 1644CE following a skirmish between local Royalists and the Scottish Army under the command of General Alexander Leslie (b.1580. d.1661) for the Parliament. Shockingly, a sword from the collection of armour was stolen in early 1994CE and remains untraced.

In 1480CE, a new chancel was added in the Perpendicular Style and the nave walls were raised accordingly. The roof timbers seen today date from this period.

St Cuthbert’s Church entrance doorway

The fine Norman entrance to the church is now contained within a porch built in around 1750CE. The porch contains a small Roman Altar stone probably from the Flavian Auxiliary fort at Voreda – Old Penrith,  part of a grave cover carved with an Anglian Cross and a disused font.

Roman Altar from Fort Voreda and font

The door itself measures a mere 2 feet 7 inches in width another indication of a fortified church.

The church contains numerous memorials including an effigy in stone of Thomas de Caldebec, Rector and Archdeacon dating from 1319CE.

Stone effigy of Thomas de Caldebec, Rector and Archdeacon 1319

The magnificent Saint Cuthbert’s Church with its powerful pele tower represents one of the finest examples of a 14th-century fortified church to be found in the border area, was substantially restored during 1866CE and 1879CE and was thankfully recorded as a Grade II listed building in December 1967.

References

All images author’s own, except where stated.


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By Myghal Map Serpren.

Penrith Castle in Cumbria comprises the substantial remains of a large rectangular building constructed of sandstone, now contained in a park and gardens near the town’s railway station.

The remains of Penrith Castle

It has been long thought and even recorded in reference books that the castle was built by William Strickland, later to become Bishop of Carlisle from 1400CE to 1419CE when he died.

There is no actual evidence of this, and the licence granted to him to build a fortified tower in 1379CE and 1399CE probably refers to the nearby Hutton Hall and its Pele Tower.

The actual builder was Ralph Neville (b.1364CE  d.1425CE), who was granted the Manor of Penrith in 1396CE and who had the castle constructed soon afterwards.

As Warden of the West March, he was responsible for the defence of this area against the Scots and played a key role in that task.

The castle was not actually built at the summit of the hill but on a site probably occupied by a far earlier Roman fort with the banks and ditches re-employed as defensive works for the castle.

The castle was an outward demonstration of Neville’s authority and in its initial stages was a Pele Tower.

Penrith Castle Tower, with vaults below.

As such, it was never capable of withstanding sustained attack but was suitable for short-term defence awaiting assistance from Brougham or Carlisle.

The castle remained in the Neville family, Richard Neville (b.1400CE  d.1460CE) the 5th Earl Salisbury, then Richard Neville (b.1428CE  d.1471CE) 6th Earl Salisbury and 16th Earl Warwick, the so-called ‘Warwick the Kingmaker’ all of whom carried out works.

In 1471CE, Penrith Castle was given to Richard, Duke of Gloucester (b.1452CE  d.1485CE), who was to become King Richard III in 1483CE until his death two years later. He used the castle as his occasional residence from 1471CE to 1485CE.

Richard carried out considerable alterations to the castle converting it into a residence with many luxurious features.

Penrith Castle plan, showing probably building phases. Image ©English Heritage information board.

Large windows were inserted in defensive walls in order to light private apartments and a new gatehouse and tower were constructed.

Much later, the castle served as headquarters for the Parliamentarian General, John Lambert (b.1618CE  d.1684CE) during the Civil War of 1648CE after which time the building fell into decay and was partially dismantled.

Penrith Castle, internal wall and remains of a fireplace.

Passing through a variety of owners, the castle ended up with Penrith Urban District Council and a public park was constructed around it during the 1920sCE.

Now a Grade I Listed Building, the property is managed by English Heritage and is currently freely accessible.

References

  • Discovering Castles in England and Wales – John Kinross, Shire Publications Limited, London, 1973
  • The Castles of Great Britain – Sidney Toy, Heinemann, London, 1966

All images author’s own, except where stated.


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By Myghal Map Serpren. Following on from yesterday’s post, we now take a look at some monuments on the grounds of St Andrew’s.

The Giant’s Grave

In Saint Andrew’s churchyard can be found a number of monuments of note.

According to legend, the ‘Giant’s Grave’ is the burial place of Owen Caesarius, King of Cumbria between 920CE and 937CE. It has been said that he was variously a giant, a soldier and a sportsman.

The Giant’s Grave, St Andrew’s

The hogback stones are said to represent the wild boars that King Owen killed in the nearby forest of Inglewood.

The fact that a King lies buried at Penrith is not surprising as the town was the capital of the ancient kingdom.

The grave is 15 feet long with two stone crosses measuring 10 feet in height.

There are four hog back stones along the sides of the grave.

It is believed that these four stones were taken from earlier graves, which is emphasised by the difference in their dates.

The Western Cross dates from around 950CE and the Eastern Cross from 1000CE.

The oldest hogback is the South Eastern one which dates from around 950CE.

All markings have disappeared following erosion.

Interestingly, the grave was opened during the 17th century and long shank bones and other male bones were uncovered with a broadsword laying alongside them.

During the substantial rebuilding of Saint Andrew’s in 1772CE, the intention was to break up the stones forming the Giant’s Grave and to dispose of them. This caused local unrest which prevented such action although not before the breaking up of some of the stones had already occurred which were repaired by using metal rivets.

The grave was moved during 1887CE to place it and its stones in line with the church and the stones were remounted.

The Giant’s Thumb

Also in Saint Andrew’s churchyard, this time in the North West corner, a Norse wheel cross stands which dates from around 920CE.

This has become known as ‘The Giant’s Thumb’ and is thought to be a memorial to his father erected by King Owen Caesarius.

Having been repurposed as a whipping post during part of its long history, by the end of the 19th century it had sunk into the ground around it and was preserved by placing it on a new base.

The Giant’s Thumb, St Andrew’s

This base bears the patterns of those faintly found on the cross during these times.

The churchyard contains other monuments of interest including a railway monument erected to the memory of Richard Virtue, an engineer and supervisor of the construction of the Lancaster to Carlisle railway in 1846CE and the War Memorial erected in 1919CE amongst other graves of notable people and commoners.

St Andrew’s, the railway monument to Robert Virtue.

On a site which has seen Christian worship for a thousand and more years, Saint Andrew’s in Penrith merits a visit from all those finding themselves in the town and exists as a testament to those who have worked to sustain the building and its monuments and relics down the generations, often in the face of vandals and those who care little for built heritage.

REFERENCES

  • A History and Guide to St. Andrews’s Church, Penrith – Simon Fleming, Skiddaw Grove Productions, 1997
  • The Old Parish Churches of Cumbria – Mike Salter, Folly Publications, 1998

All images author’s own, except where stated.


See similar articles by Myghal Map Serpren


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